There’s a balance to be struck when creating to the theme of romance. Where passion and agony meet yearning, limerence and lust, Simone Rocha takes a tender approach, allowing the many faces of love—of devastation and elation—to permeate her collection with precision and poise.
“I’m trying to love you” topped the notes for her spring/summer 2027 collection, which explored the nature of love and beauty. The starting point was Caravaggio’s masterpiece The Taking of Christ, a painting famously rediscovered in Dublin after around 200 years, having long been considered a copy of the lost original. Simone Rocha drew from its rich history and the idea of finding “the most beautiful thing in an unexpected place”.
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Set at London’s Old Bailey, the show’s setting reinforced Simone’s concept, whilst the building’s sinuous arches echoed the fluid fabrics and sculptural cuts that followed, as a procession of romantic looks swept through the room. Roses are undoubtedly back, appearing in thick strokes across necklines and climbing towards the head to form rosette-embellished hoods, whilst rose embroidery crept across sheer tulle dresses. Drop-waist hems drew on Rocha’s enduring ballerina influence, whilst kitten Perspex heels and PVC wedges stood along ballet flats—Cinderella gone bad.
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Clutching shawls, bags and jackets, models physically embodied the act of clinging and yearning. With Sense and Sensibility soon to grace screens, period drama-worthy gowns felt particularly timely.
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Naturally, wardrobe staples received the Simone Rocha treatment, too, with bomber jackets styled with tailored Bermuda shorts. A delicate palette of lilac, black, cream and pink softened the collection, whilst the drama extended to beauty: embellished eyebrows framed flushed faces and velvet lips painted deep pouts. Hair was either gracefully draped or swept back with precision, echoing the artwork that inspired the collection.
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Finding beauty in the unexpected, Rocha’s latest collection delivered the bubble hems, ruffle finishes, powdery palette and intensely feminine styling we’ve come to adore from her. As ever, her vision of femininity remained remarkably strong.